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Creative Knitting
May 15, 2009, Vol. 6, No. 7

Table of Contents

Oh no! That's not what I wanted!

Reality Knitting 101

Just for Baby

Asymmetrical Cardigan

Reader Letter

Have you ever finished sewing the seams, attended to the details of completing a garment you spent weeks or months knitting, and found that the project did not meet your expectations?

Oh no! That's not what I wanted!
Perhaps the style did not suit your body, the color was not your best shade, or some detail made you wince? Too many times, at the completion of a garment, the end did not seem to justify the means. In our haste to cast on for a project, we sometimes fail to make critical decisions about the seemingly endless options open to us as the knitters of new garments. Perhaps the designer of my dream sweater with a deep turtleneck envisioned the eventual wearer having a swan-like neck. Instead I resemble a prairie dog peeking out of its burrow in this sweater! What to do? Is all hope lost? Not at all! Welcome to the world of reality knitting!

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Reality Knitting 101

Today I want to revisit a topic I mentioned in a newsletter some months ago. The subject was revising finished projects which did not quite measure up to expectations. I've had this sort of problem and found some very happy cures. I'll use garments from my own sweater chest to illustrate what can be done to go from glum to glad in a few steps.

  • Turquoise Sample
    The first project was designed as a cuff-to-cuff pullover with an enormous side-buttoned turtleneck. The two gorgeous yarns were used to create a striped-tonal quality, and the reverse Stockinette stitch was considered the right side of the fabric. When I made this about 15 years ago, my personal-climate issues were making themselves known, and I found the turtleneck unbearably stifling. The height of the collar made me choke, and I wore it only once. I had even added to the length of the pullover, making it tunic-length by adding an 8-inch bit to the hem, which only made the part I was attempting to cover look that much larger. I neglected to photograph the piece before I decided to alter it, but you can imagine the style. I had so much to learn!

    When I revisited it with a critical eye and a hopeful heart, I could see that pulling out all my work to reuse the gorgeous yarns would be a real problem. One of the two yarns was a mohair boucle, which would have resisted every attempt to rip it out. Besides, it goes against every inclination of my knitter's soul to tear up an entire project when it's finished! With that in mind, changing the details of the sweater became my best alternative.

    Because it was knitted laterally instead of vertically, I realized by taking one row from the center front, I could make it a cardigan! I clipped one stitch in the center of the row and picked out that row so two rows of live stitches were left, one on each side. Picking up these stitches with a small-gauge circular needle, I made a simple applied I-cord up each side, taking care to have the sides match in length. I am now at the point of continuing the I-cord around the neckline to finish it. It will do nicely with a collared shirt or a mock turtleneck, which is much more flattering for me. The lower edge seems a bit large, so I may pick up and knit a little ribbing around it, which would match the sleeve cuffs nicely and keep the continuity of design. I'll try it on to see what will make it look best on me. When it is completed, I'll give you an update!
    Click for larger image Click for larger image
    The last decision regarding this sweater is the closure. I may use silver clasps or buttons from my stash, or perhaps even some I-cord frogs made to continue the one-color effect. I am confident the right effect will drop into place one day.

  • Kelly Celtic Knot
    The next project is a design for a turtleneck tunic made with seed stitch and a large Celtic knot on both front and back. I made the sweater exactly as the pattern dictated, but again found the turtleneck did not suit me. The Celtic knot and a border surrounding it were made with Stockinette stitches which closely resembled I-cord. After I removed the entire neckline of the tunic, I finished the shallow scoop with applied I-cord again, adding it as well to the sleeve cuff edges to keep the detail similar. I have worn this tunic for many years now, and am delighted that I made the changes to the pattern to make it mine alone.
    Click for larger image Click for larger image
    It is imperative when making this sort of alteration that you keep the basic design firmly in mind. Adding an element which was not in the original design to make it into something new could look like you added a ruffle of calico to make your jeans longer. Not exactly the look we're going for unless the hippy-dippy, anything-goes 1960s fashions return!

  • Alaskan Memory
    There is a rule of thumb which states that your measurement from tip of middle finger on the left to the same place on the right, with arms extended, is equal to your height. I should remember that whenever I knit sleeves, because although my height is average, my arms seem shorter! One current style of cuffs which cover the last knuckles is not my preference, yet I'll knit the sleeve length the pattern dictates every time before recalling my personal need. My brain seems to disconnect here!

    I have a cardigan with an Alaskan memory. The yarn was purchased on my first trip to the last frontier, and wearing it is always a pleasure. It's boxy and loose, and I always wear one particular scarf with it, a jungle print with brown and black. The scarf is the only brown article in my entire wardrobe, unless you count khaki as brown. The cardigan's sleeves were 3 inches too long and required rolling each and every time it was worn. At last I tired of the bulk at the wrist and knew it was time to bite the bullet.

    One snipped stitch was all it took to start the process, and soon the extra length was gone. I gathered the remaining stitches and crocheted them together in one tidy little row, and used the crab stitch (backward single crochet) to match the edges of the cardigan. No more gorilla sleeves or rolls at the wrist!

Keeping the changes subtle is usually the best bet; sometimes merely changing the buttons on a cardigan or jacket is all that's needed for a fresh new look. You might consider this change of seasons is a great time to look at your accumulated sweater stash and see if a little creativity will give you a very inexpensive update for some favorite garments!

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Just for Baby

Just for Baby
Editor Jeanne Stauffer has gathered a collection titled Just for Baby (recently published by House of White Birches), filled with 14 projects for our favorite gift recipients: babies! It includes blankets, layettes, booties and bibs. The 48 page booklet is $14.95, and can be found in many knit shops. You can also find it online at AnniesAttic.com. Enter Just for Baby in the search box; for a quick look inside the booklet, click See More Photos. Like many of our patterns, you may order the collection for download right there onto your computer, or have the booklet sent to you. Magic!

One of the sets includes a vest, hat and socks made in textured stripes. The projects are all knitted flat and are in the easy skill level range. I should reveal that I am the designer of the textured-stripes ensemble, so I'm not impartial. The set inspired a knitter friend to make hats for several of her grandchildren. Anne Marie Browning and her delightful granddaughter Tillie pose here with the hat just completed. From their smiles, it's hard to determine which one is happiest!


Click for larger image

Back to top.

Free Pattern
The Asymmetrical Cardigan was designed by Svetlana Avrakh. The fine yarn used will yield a light-weight style which can be perfect for all season wear. The beautiful ribbonlike pattern is called Sheepfold and has a 3-D effect with no added bulk.


Asymmetrical CardiganAsymmetrical Cardigan

Design by Svetlana Avrakh

This timeless style is uniquely designed with beautiful textural patterning.

Sizes
Woman's small (medium, large, extra-large) Instructions are given for smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only 1 number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Finished Measurements
Chest: 36 (40, 44, 48) inches

Materials

  • Lightweight cotton yarn* (136 yds/50g per ball): 10 (10, 11, 12) balls apricot #60603
  • Size 3 (3.25mm) needles
    • Asymmetrical Cardigan
  • Size 5 (3.75mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Cable needle (cn)
  • Stitch holder
  • Stitch markers
  • 6 (1/2-inch) buttons

*Sample project was completed with Grace (100 percent mercerized cotton) from Patons.

Gauge
24 sts and 32 rows = 4 inches/10cm with larger needles in pat
To save time, take time to check gauge.

Special Abbreviations
C2F: Sl first st to cn and hold in front, k1, then k1 from cn.
C2B: Sl first st to cn and hold in back, k1, then k1 from cn.
T2F: Sl first st to cn and hold in front, p1, then k1 from cn. Sl both sts off needle.
T2B: Sl first st to cn and hold in back, k1, then p1 from cn.
Tw2F: Sl first st to cn and hold in front, p1, then p1 from cn.
Tw2B: Sl first st to cn and hold in back, p1, then p1 from cn.
T3F: Sl next 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p1, then k2 from cn.
T3B: Sl next st to cn and hold in back, k2, then p1 from cn.
C3F: Sl next 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k1, then k2 from cn.
C3B: Sl next st to cn and hold in back, k2, then k1 from cn.
T5B: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, then [p1, k2] from cn.

Pattern Stitches
Pat A (panel of 16 sts)
Row 1 (RS): P2, C2F, k8, T2B, p2.
Row 2: K3, T2B, p6, Tw2F, p1, k2.
Row 3: P2, k2, C2F, k4, T2B, p4.
Row 4: K5, T2B, p2, Tw2F, p3, k2.
Row 5: P2, k4, C2F, T2B, p6.
Row 6: K7, Tw2F, p5, k2.
Row 7: P2, k6, C2F, p6.
Row 8: K5, Tw2F, p7, k2.
Row 9: P2, k8, C2F, p4.
Row 10: K3, T2F, p9, k2.
Row 11: P2, k10, C2F, p2.
Row 12: K2, p12, k2.
Row 13: P2, T2F, k8, C2B, P2.
Row 14: K2, p1, Tw2B, p6, T2F, k3.
Row 15: P4, T2F, k4, C2B, k2, p2.
Row 16: K2, p3, Tw2B, p2, T2F, k5.
Row 17: P6, T2F, C2B, k4, p2.
Row 18: K2, p5, Tw2B, k7.
Row 19: P6, C2B, k6, p2.
Row 20: K2, p7, Tw2B, k5.
Row 21: P4, C2B, k8, p2.
Row 22: K2, p9, Tw2B, k3.
Row 23: P2, C2B, k10, p2.
Row 24: K2, p12, k2.
Rep Rows 1–24 for Pat A


Pat B (panel of 15 sts)
Row 1 (RS): P2, T2B, T3F, p1, T3B, T2F, p2.
Row 2: K2, p1, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p1, k2.
Row 3: P2, k1, p2, T5B, p2, k1, p2.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: P2, T2F, T3B, p1, T3F, T2B, p2.
Row 6: [K3, p3] twice, k3.
Row 7: P3, C3B, p3, C3F, p3.
Row 8: Rep Row 6.
Row 9: P2, T3B, T2F, p1, T2B, T3F, p2.
Row 10: K2, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2, k2.
Row 11: P2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2.
Row 12: Rep Row 10.
Row 13: P2, T3F, T2B, p1, T2F, T3B, p2.
Row 14: Rep Row 6.
Row 15: P3, C3F, p3, C3B, p3.
Row 16: Rep Row 6.
Rep Rows 1–16 rows for Pat B.

Back
Note: Mark first row as WS.
With smaller needles, cast on 103 (115, 126, 138) sts.
Work 7 rows in garter st (knit every row), inc 5 (5, 6, 6) sts evenly across last row. (108, 120, 132, 144 sts)
Change to larger needles and work in St st until back measures 16 (16 1/2, 17, 18) inches from beg, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole
Bind off 5 (7, 9, 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows. (98, 106, 114, 124 sts)
Next row: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Next row: Purl.
[Rep last 2 rows] 6 (7, 8, 11) times more. (84, 90, 96, 100 sts)
Work even in St st until armhole measures 8 (8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2) inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape right shoulder
Row 1: Bind off 7 (8, 9, 9) sts, k15 (17, 19, 20), k2tog. Turn, leaving rem sts unworked.
Row 2: P2tog, purl to end of row.
Row 3: Bind off 7 (8, 9, 9) sts, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Row 4: Purl across. Bind off rem 7 (8, 8, 10) sts.

Shape left shoulder
With RS facing, sl next 36 (36, 38, 38) sts to a holder for center back. Join yarn to rem sts.
Row 1: Ssk, knit to end of row.
Row 2: Bind off 7 (8, 9, 9) sts, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog tbl.
Row 3: Ssk, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Bind off 7 (8, 9, 9) sts, purl to end of row.
Row 5: Knit across. Bind off rem 7 (8, 8, 10) sts.


Click for pdf

Left Front
Note: Mark first row as WS.
With smaller needles, cast on 67 (72, 78, 86) sts.
Work 7 rows in garter st (knit every row), inc 4 (4, 5, 5) sts evenly across last row. (71, 76, 83, 91 sts)
Change to larger needles and work in St st until work measures 16 (16 1/2, 17, 18) inches from beg, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole
Row 1: Bind off 5 (7, 9, 10) sts, knit to end of row. (66, 69, 74, 81 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K2, ssk, knit to end of row.
[Rep [Rows 2 and 3] 6 (7, 8, 11) times more. (59, 61, 65, 69 sts)
Work even in St st until armhole measures 5 (5 1/2, 6, 6 1/2) inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape neck
K25 (28, 30, 32), k2tog. Turn, leaving rem 32 (31, 33, 35) sts onto a spare needle.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows, work 1 row even then dec on next row once. (21, 24, 26, 28 sts)
Work even until armhole measures same length as back, ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulder
At armhole edge, [bind off 7 (8, 9, 9) sts] twice. (7, 8, 8, 10 sts) Work 1 row even.
Bind off.

Left front neck extension
With RS facing, sl next 24 (23, 25, 27) sts onto a st holder for left front neck. Join yarn to rem sts. Ssk, knit to end of row. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 3 rows, then [every other row] twice. (2 sts)
Work 10 rows in St st.
Bind off.


Click for pdf

Right Front
Note: Mark first row as WS.
With smaller needles, cast on 76 (82, 88, 94) sts.
Work 7 rows in garter st inc 4 sts evenly across last row. (80, 86, 92, 98 sts)
Change to larger needles.

Set up pat
Note: You may find it helpful to place markers between pat panels.
Row 1 (RS): K1; p2, C2F, k8, T2B, p2 (Row 1 Pat A); p2, T2B, T3F, p1, T3B, T2F, p2 (Row 1 Pat B); p2, T2F, k8, C2B, p2 (Row 13 Pat A); knit to end of row.
Row 2: P32 (38, 44, 50); work Row 14 of Pat A; work Row 2 of Pat B; work Row 2 of Pat A; p1.
Pat panels are now established.
Continue to work in pat, until work measures 16 (16 1/2, 17, 18) inches from beg, ending with a RS row.

Shape armhole
Row 1: Bind off 5 (7, 9, 10) sts, work in pat to end of row. (75, 79, 83, 88 sts)
Row 2: Work in pat to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 3: Work even in pat.
[Rep Rows 2 and 3] 6 (7, 8, 11) times more. (68, 71, 74, 76 sts)
Continue to work even in pat st until armhole measures 4 1/2 (5, 5 1/2, 6) inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape neck
Work in pat across 33 (36, 38, 40) sts. Turn. Place rem 35 (35, 36, 36) sts on a st holder for right front neck.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 5 rows, then every other row until 21 (24, 26, 28) sts rem.
Continue to work even until armhole measures same length as back, ending with a RS row.

Shape shoulder
At armhole edge, [bind off 7 (8, 9, 9) sts] twice. (7, 8, 8, 10 sts)
Work 1 row even.
Bind off.


Click for pdf

Sleeves
Note: Mark first row as WS.
With smaller needles, cast on 48 (50, 52, 56) sts.
Work 7 rows in garter st inc 3 sts evenly across last row. (51, 53, 55, 59 sts)
Change to larger needles.

Set up pat
Note: You may find it helpful to place markers between pat panels.
Row 1 (RS): K2 (3, 4, 6); p2, C2F, k8, T2B, p2 (Row 1 Pat A); p2, T2B, T3F, p1, T3B, T2F, p2 (Row 1 Pat B); p2, T2F, k8, C2B, p2 (Row 13 Pat A); k2 (3, 4, 6).
Row 2: P2 (3, 4, 6); work Row 14 of Pat A; work Row 2 of Pat B; work Row 2 of Pat A; p2 (3, 4, 6).
Pat panels are now established.
Continue to work in pat, at the same time, beg on 5th row, inc 1 st at each end of needle every 6th (4th, 4th, 4th) row until there are 95 (95, 93, 89) sts, then every 6th row until there are 95 (101, 107, 113) sts.
Continue to work even in pat until sleeve measures 18 (18 1/2, 19, 19) inches from beg, ending with a WS row. Place marker at each end of last row.
Continue to work in pat for 6 (8, 12, 14) more rows.

Shape cap
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, work in pat to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 2: Work even in pat.
[Rep Rows 1 and 2] 6 (7, 8, 11) times more. (81, 85, 89, 89 sts)
Bind off.


Click for pdf

Assembly
Pin garment pieces to measurements. Cover with a damp cloth, leaving cloth to dry.
Sew shoulder seams.

Neck edge
With RS facing and smaller needles, knit 35 (35, 36, 36) sts from right front holder, dec 3 sts evenly across; pick up and knit 29 sts along right front neck edge and 5 sts along right back neck edge; knit 36 (36, 38, 38) sts from back st holder, dec 4 sts evenly across; pick up and knit 5 sts along left back neck edge and 21 sts along left front neck edge; knit 24 (23, 25, 27) sts from left front st holder, dec 3 sts evenly across; pick up and knit 21 sts along left front neck edge. (166, 165, 170, 172 sts)
Knit 6 rows.
Bind off all sts.

Left front edge
With RS facing and smaller needles, beg at neck, pick up and knit 140 (146, 151, 160) sts along left front edge.
Knit 1 row.
Next row (buttonhole): K2, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row.
Knit 2 rows. Bind off.

Right front edge
With RS facing and smaller needles, beg at bottom, pick up and knit 120 (126, 132, 140) sts along right front edge.
Knit 1 row.
Next row (buttonhole row): K45 (51, 57, 65), [yo, k2tog, k16] 4 times, yo, k2tog, k1.
Knit 2 rows.
Bind off all sts.

Finishing
Sew in sleeves, placing rows above markers along bound-off edge. Sew side and sleeve seams. Sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes.


Copyright © April 2005 Creative Knitting. All rights reserved.

Click here for printable pattern page.

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Reader Letter

Libby Charles relates:

Last week while sitting with my dying grandfather in a local hospice house, a volunteer came into his room with a brand-new afghan knitted by an anonymous volunteer. Even though I am a relatively new knitter, I know enough to be impressed with the quality of the work, the amount of time and effort required to make the afghan, as well as the unselfishness of a stranger to provide such a lovely piece for a dying patient. Later that night, my grandfather peacefully died with this beautiful afghan over his feet and legs. My mother and I were amazed when the hospice nurse told us that the afghan was ours to keep; we thought that it was just on loan to Granddaddy while he was in hospice care. Now my mother has the afghan proudly and prominently displayed in her home and tells everyone who comes by about the generosity and kindness of someone who lovingly shared her/his skill with a dying man and his family.

This lovely gift has inspired me to do something similar as a way of expressing my gratitude and to make someone else's journey a little easier. When I opened your newsletter today and found the free and easy pattern for the Guy's Guernsey Afghan, it brought tears to my eyes. Now I have a pattern to follow without having to search for one! Thank you.

Please accept my deepest sympathy on the loss of your dear grandfather. How wonderful that you could share in his last days. The generous people who provide the care at the end of our days deserve our great thanks for their gifts of compassion and tenderness.

The anonymous knitter who so lovingly shared her gift with your family would no doubt be moved to hear your story. Since we don't know who made the lovely afghan for your grandfather, I'm including your letter in this issue of the newsletter to let all volunteers who make use of their talents in this way know of your appreciation. Perhaps others will be moved to perform acts of selflessness in this manner.

Thank you for wanting to pass the kindness forward in making the Guy's Guernsey Afghan for another hospice patient. As you knit, may your sorrow over the loss of your grandfather be replaced with wonderful memories of him, and prayers for the recipient of your gift.

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Good news! We're adding an extra 10 pages of knitting patterns and information to each issue of Creative Knitting magazine, beginning with the July 2009 issue! Because there's no room in the printed edition, we're adding it to our Web site, at CreativeKnittingMagazine.com. It's no extra cost to subscribers (print or digital); just sign in with your e-mail address, and as a magazine subscriber, you have full access to those extra patterns! Newsstand buyers can sign in with the limited-time code. Check it out!

That's all for now; it's time to go outside to enjoy the beautiful spring day!


Barb Bettegnies signature

Barb Bettegnies
editor, Creative Knitting magazine

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